The name alone sounds impossibly exotic, conjuring images of tropical ports, spices and palm oil. If the reality is a little more prosaic, Berbera is a real gem that oozes ambience and soul and should definitely be on your itinerary. It's hard to believe when you see it, but Berbera was once a busy town. Lying on the Gulf of Aden opposite Yemen, it has been a centre of maritime trade since ancient times. Today this shady town consists mostly of crumbling buildings and mud-and-thatch houses. Various restorations schemes are under investigation but nothing has been done yet.
Most people get to Berbera by travelling overland from Hargeisa, via minibus and 4WD. The journey is 150km, and usually costs $5. You will need an armed security officer to escort you between the cities, which will have to be organised in Hargeisa. Sometimes travellers are able to go independently by organising a letter of permission from the Police Commissioner in Hargeisa.