On a global index of odd capitals, Hargeisa would be a strong contender for one of the top spots. It's a down-to-earth, friendly place that's undergoing a rapid transformation. The streets are alive, the roads are busy and the air is thick with a very bearable cacophony of mobile phones, vehicle horns and calls to prayer. Sure, the capital of Somaliland still bears the scars of the civil war that destroyed the country in the past decades, but look past the makeshift shops and housing and you will see Hargeisa's unmistakable pep and determination to rebuild. As with any city in transition, it offers plenty of contrasts: donkey carts jostle for road space with 4WDs and battered minibuses, goats and sheep roam through the dusty side roads, elegant Somali ladies stroll down the main drag, turbaned clan elders relax over a cup of sweet Somali tea and youngsters from the diaspora watch Manchester United on Al-Jazeera at a modern cafeteria or update their Facebook page at an internet cafe.

Things to do

There's very little in the way of tourist sights and activities in Hargeisa, though the market in the centre of town is worth a look, as is the camel market on the outside of town. The local residents are extremely friendly and will greet foreigners in the street. Unlike some other places in Africa, they will not try to sell you anything and are often interested in having a conversation and making sure you feel welcome. Note that if you leave the city, you will be required to take a government security guard with you (known as an "SPU"). See the "Stay safe" section below for details.

• Located in the countryside outside Hargeisa, Laas Gaal (Laas Geel in Somali) is a definite must-see. It is a complex of caves and rock shelters that contain excellently preserved cave paintings. The paintings represent some of the earliest known art in the Horn of Africa and the African continent, dating back to 9,000 B.C. To visit this place, a letter from the ministry of tourism must be obtained and a fee of USD $25 must be paid. A car (sharable) from Hargeisa is likely to cost USD $80 to $100. SPU is required for this trip. You need to allow maybe 6 hours for this trip in based in Hargeisa.
• There's plenty of wildlife in the Sheikh mountains and the Daallo mountains near Hargeisa. You may spot Kudu, wildebeest, gazelles and different species of birds. An SPU would be required for this trip.
• Exchange money. Be amused at the brick of currency before the money-exchanger and the colorful money stands with art. Compare the rate before you change.
• Sample the street food at the central night market. From fried camel liver with vegetables to camel milk to fresh juice. Truly Somaliland experience.
• The Red Sea beaches at Berbera are a three-hour drive away and could make a nice day trip, or a relaxing weekend away. The Maan-soor hotel branch in Berbera offers scuba diving. For this trip, you could apply for an exemption from the SPU requirement and take a shared bus.
• Hire SPU, pack lunch and go climb the 'Breasts of Hargeisa' (visible from the Ambassador), early start (0600hrs) 45mins travel time, climb the hills, wander around the area to see fossils (sea anemone!!) and some rare insects. Hyena and dik-dik if lucky. Back in time for late lunch.